A handy person often finds satisfaction in building their enclosure. I often built my enclosures when I kept reptiles and amphibians for many years.
Chameleons present particular challenges for the materials you can use and how you design the enclosure. This article will discuss some inexpensive cage solutions and the factors you should consider when housing chameleons.
Cutting and measuring hardware cloth from a roll works best when you sit or use a weight on the unrolled part.
Can I Make My Chameleon Cage?
What do you consider when deciding whether to build a cage? My basic rule has always been to buy something that already exists if it already exists. I make it if it doesn't exist. Don't build a screen cage that is 2'x2'x4' tall.
There are a lot of them. To make it look nice, you need tools and skills. It should look like something you can pick up anywhere, so pick it up, have something that looks good, and spend your time with your family or starting a Green Banana Roach colony.
When you make a cage, you can make something perfect for your situation that produced cages cannot.
Considerations for Caging
Chameleons, in particular, are very delicate creatures. They are sometimes thought to be delicate or even impossible to maintain for a long time.
The co-owner of Sticky Tongue Farms, I have been told many times that I am unqualified to do what I've been doing for many years, namely breeding, housing, and hatching several species of chameleons over many generations.
You must follow certain rules if you want to keep animals in your greenhouse.
Make sure the habitat is as similar as possible to the animal's natural habitat. For chameleon keepers, education is just as important as observation. No matter how perfect the enclosure is, some chameleons will not tolerate it.
Sometimes, misinformed pet store employees or show vendors encourage hobbyists to purchase aquariums for their chameleons. Please reconsider this habitat choice.
The airflow in aquariums was thought to be an issue for chameleons in the past. Observations over the years have proven that the reflection, not the lack of airflow, is to blame. Chameleons perceive the other chameleon (its reflection) as a constant threat.
Without the ability to escape the aggressor, the animal's stress level is so high that the immune system breaks down, resulting in illness. It has only been possible for me to successfully use an aquarium with small leaf chameleons like Brookesia paramatta or B. superciliaris. We should not keep all other chameleon species in aquariums.
Do not purchase the animal if you cannot afford to provide it with the proper environment. The enclosure is often the largest expense, not the animal itself. You can purchase easy-to-assemble or preassembled cages for chameleons at reptile shows or through reptile magazines and the Internet.
Besides, you always have the option of building your own.
What You’ll Need
You will find detailed instructions here on how to make a chameleon cage from scratch. There are different these products, and you probably already possess several of them.
Container
For your cage, you will need a container. Plastic or wood are both acceptable materials for this container. If you want to save yourself some steps, repurpose a container, but you can also make the cage yourself (as described in our directions).
You can repurpose another container if it is at least 2′ feet (0.61 m) wide by 2′ feet (0.61 m) long by 4′ feet (1.22 m) tall.
Wood
Those who build their cage from scratch will need pieces of wood for the frame. Pine is a good wood material, as long as it has not been treated. Two by twos (which are 2" wide (ca. 5 cm) by 2" high (ca. 5 cm)) must be at least 4' long. After cutting them, you'll need:
Each piece is 4′ feet (1.22 m) long
Each piece is 1′ feet (30 cm) long and 10′′ inches (25 cm) wide
You can easily find this at your local hardware store.
Screens
The sides of the cage will be covered with a screen mesh. This promotes good ventilation and prevents respiratory infections. Aluminum is durable and lightweight, making it perfect for a pet cage. Crickets and chameleons will be prevented from escaping this mesh size as well.
When using another screen type, make sure the mesh size matches the window screen mesh. If you follow our specifications, you'll need at least 3 pieces measuring 2 ft (0.61 m) by 4 ft (1.22 m)
Screws
Make sure the screws you used to attach your wood are long enough to bite into both pieces of wood. When it comes to the 2x2s, as we mentioned, you'll want screws that are at least 2.5" (6.35 cm) long.
Staple gun
The staple gun will attach the screen and flooring to the cage's wood. It will hold the parts in place well and work just fine.
Floor material
A plywood floor can be customized to match the frames' bases well. But you don't want plywood just lying around, so you need to cover it with a substrate, such as a reptile carpet, or get creative with a wood grain stick film to give it a nice appearance.
According to our specifications, you'll need a piece of 2′ feet or 0.61 m by 2′ feet or 0.61 m.
Wood glue
The wood glue will be useful for adhering the frame pieces together and adhering the flooring to the frame. If you prefer, you can use this instead of screws or staples.
Clear Adhesive
The clear adhesive is used like wood glue, although it won't work quite as well when it comes to sticking the wood pieces together. Plastic sides on wood will adhere to this glue.
Premade Top
A premade top, combined with a screen on top, will make your life easier. There is no need to make the top yourself since it comes with a built-in door or access for feeding the chameleons and cleaning the cage.
Hand Saw
The wood will need to be cut somehow, and a handsaw will do nicely for your needs. Easy to assemble and fold, this one is collapsible.
Screwdriver or drill
If you choose this drill, it will drive in screws easily and drill the pilot holes you need. I use this drill for all my building projects. The battery lasts for a long time, and the power is decent.
Hammer
If you plan on using nails to connect the wood, you might want to get a hammer if you don't already have one.
Boxcutter
Knives like this one are among the most valuable tools in your collection. If you decide to use plexiglass in this project, you'll use it to trim the plexiglass to the correct size.
You can also use it to pull up any staples you put in the wrong place.
Plexiglass
Make one of the sides of the box out of plexiglass or some other clear plastic. In addition to retaining a little heat, it won't affect ventilation too much. It should be 2′ feet (0.61 m) by 4′ feet (1.22 m).
This can be pieced together with smaller pieces. Alternatively, you may wish to find a premade door and fill it in around it with clear plastic.
Sizes and Placement
In most cases, people settle for a small plant base enclosure for their chameleons because it's easy and inexpensive. It is always important to consider the size. A minimum of 2 feet by 2 feet is recommended for subadult to adult chameleons.
For these arboreal species, height is always more important than the width in terms of space. The cage can also be placed on a table or hung to make chameleons more comfortable. For the chameleon to exercise, the enclosure should be large enough.
A rough, exposed edge must be covered with wood, silicone, or plastic tubing to prevent injury.
A chameleon that paces and claws at its enclosure all day may need a different environment. It may be sufficient to move the enclosure to another part of the house. Stress is the enemy and must be reduced at all costs.
Chameleons need to be housed separately, out of sight of each other, to stay healthy and happy. If two chameleons are on opposite sides of a room, don't assume they're sufficiently separated, especially if they're still in plain sight of each other.
Even from a distance, long-term harassment can cause a chameleon to stop eating, develop respiratory problems, or die unexpectedly. The water saucers will be used on both ends of the tube to shape the cage.
An Easy Chameleon Cage Construction Guide
Tube cages, with their cheap and quick design, are the only cages I use due to their simplicity and mobility. Tube cages require the following materials, which can be found at your local hardware store:
This is a 4-foot wide, 57-inch long piece of quarter-inch hardware cloth. It comes in a plastic-coated variety that is better for chameleons' sensitive feet.
The piece will cover one 17-inch-diameter, 4-foot-tall cage. Some stores will cut it for you. If you buy a larger role, you will need wire cutters to cut a piece the right size.
Six hog rings, wire ties or zip ties, hog ring pliers, clear silicone caulking, caulking gun, two plastic saucers measuring 17 inches in diameter, plants, sticks, and small bungee cords.
When the hardware cloth has been rolled to the proper diameter, fasten it at the top and bottom with hog rings, wire ties, or zip ties.
To fit the hardware cloth tube inside one of the plant saucers, roll it into a tube. Hardware cloth ends should overlap by about 3 inches. The size of your cage will be determined by the diameter of the plastic plant saucers that will go on top and bottom.
Larger saucers can be used for larger cages. Simply measure the circumference of the plant saucer you want to use, and add 3 inches so you can overlap the ends of the hardware cloth when forming the tube to fit into the saucers.
Use a hog ring or zip tie to secure the top and bottom of the tube. The remaining zip ties, hog rings, or wire ties should be fastened along the edge until there are no gaps.
One end of the tube should be placed inside a plastic dish and secured with silicone. On the inside of the cage, put a bead of silicone along the hardware cloth seam. If there are any sharp edges, generously apply silicone all around them.
When the silicone dries, the tube cage is extremely durable and will withstand years of abuse. Simply attach a new saucer in the same way if the silicone becomes loose or if the saucer breaks.
Plastic saucer replacements will not last nearly as long as hardware cloth. Alternatively, the wire can be fashioned into a handle and attached to the cage to make moving it easier.
Inside, place a nontoxic plant (see the "Plant Paradise" sidebar for tips on choosing a plant) and a few perches. The chameleon's feet resemble the feet of birds. Provide different sized branches and sticks in the enclosure.
This promotes proper circulation and eases cramping and joint pain. Foot problems may occur if only one size of branch or perch is available.
Fresh, green, smooth branches from the yard or different sizes of dowels will do. The key to exercising the feet properly is variety.
Place your chameleon on top of the water saucer and add your second one. Secure the top saucer with small bungee cords to prevent your chameleon from escaping.
Purchasing the supplies takes longer than assembling the tube cage!
Add additional fasteners to secure the 3-inch flap created by the overlapping hardware cloth. Leave no gaps.
Lighting Suggestions
If you intend to house your chameleon indoors, make sure the enclosure is well-lit, but do not place it in direct sunlight coming through a window; this will rapidly bake your chameleon.
Many brands of reptile-specific lights are available; you want a lamp that emits high levels of UVB and UVA.
Chameleons also need a heat source to bask. I have found that fluorescent tube lights and a dome reflector with a heat lamp work best. If your chameleon comes into direct contact with any light or heat source, it could be burned.
Even a few monitored hours per week outside is better than no natural light at all. In the yard, however, your chameleon could escape if you let it roam freely. While outdoors, keep your chameleon in a secure cage, such as the tube cage described above.
Make sure there is a shady area where it can retreat (the plant in the tube cage should be able to provide some shade). Attach the bottom plant saucer to the cage with silicone caulking. Caulk both the inside and outside of the saucer.
Misty and Humid
Chameleons are tropical animals that require moderately high humidity levels. Wild chameleons rely on morning dew for hydration during dry seasons. The dehydrated chameleon will drink from standing water, but this is an act of desperation. Chameleons are prone to respiratory and eye infections caused by dehydration.
Hydrating chameleons with a pump sprayer or automatic mister twice daily is my preferred method. I place a cool-mist humidifier by the chameleon enclosures when the relative humidity is low.
Chameleons should also be given a weekly soak in the shower; lukewarm water on a light mist or spray for an hour is all they need.
Even some species may be startled by a shower. When it started to rain in Hawaii, I have seen them jump out of trees to the ground. As soon as they realize what is happening, they settle down and drink normally.
Place a bead of caulking along the seams of the cage where the hardware cloth overlaps. As a result, the chameleon is protected from being injured by sharp edges.
Feeding Techniques
Chameleons are as diverse in their feeding habits as there are species. If the tongue is not exercised, it will atrophy. Observing chameleons hunting for prey, stretching every muscle in their bodies, hanging precariously, and shooting their tongue two-and-a-half times the length of their body, is a wonderful experience.
Occasionally allowing your chameleon to "hunt" is a good idea. Chameleons become lazy if they are only fed from a dish, and their tongues usually shorten permanently.
Too many crickets in an enclosure, however, can turn on chameleons. Chameleons have been known to consume prey items on their eyes and skin. Make sure you offer your chameleon crickets within a short period and place cricket food in the enclosure to reduce the risk to your chameleon.
Various feeding techniques can be used, such as dish, hand, and free-range feeding. Chameleons don't always eat in the way you think they should, so you should experiment to see what works for you.
In his experience, a friend has placed a brick in a plastic tub so that the worms and crickets crawl around on it, enticing picky eaters. Others use paper towel tubes with the same success; the crickets crawl over the tube and make better targets by attracting the chameleons' attention. Make sure there are no paper towel remnants on the tube that could be accidentally swallowed.
Place the food dish where the chameleon will find it. For easy access, a stick or branch should be placed directly over the dish. Injuries to the tongue can occur if they get stuck to glass bowls or sticks.
It is difficult to offer pinhead crickets in a dish to hatchlings and subadults. Hand-feeding is also difficult at this age. Let the crickets crawl through the branches as they crawl through the prey items at the base of the lant.
Remember not to put in too many crickets at one time, as they seem to enjoy feasting on newborn chameleons.
Your chameleon cage is ready to be furnished with a plant and perches once the caulking has dried.
Cleaning the Cage
For optimal health, chameleon enclosures need to be clean. We recommend weekly cleaning with the removal of fecal matter, dead insects, and leaves. Ants and other pests are less likely to be attracted to the enclosure as a result.
Chameleon keepers and chameleons are susceptible to parasites and bacteria. By keeping a clean environment and washing your hands, you reduce the likelihood of becoming ill. To kill bacteria, use a disinfectant. Parasites, however, are not affected by disinfectants.
When cleaning, you should remove your chameleon from the enclosure, and any cleaning products should be thoroughly rinsed out.
Salamander larvae come in three varieties
Hatchling Housing
When dozens of chameleon eggs hatched at the same time, I was surprised. To accommodate all these new babies, I improvised by using a 40-gallon trash can, a clip light, a small tree, and paper towels as a substrate.
The temporary housing was not only inexpensive but also conducive to keeping humidity high and stress levels low. There are dogs, kids, and adults in my home, and the trash cans provided a visual barrier, which an entire clutch could use for weeks until they were separated into screen enclosures.
Install mesh screening over the hardware cloth of your tube cage to house hatchlings to subadult chameleons. A hatchling usually won't eat out of a food dish, and its pinhead crickets need to be contained in a cage.
The mesh can be fastened around the tube's outside and then the bottom plastic saucer can be silicone in place. Pinheads are kept in the cage by the mesh.
By misting your cage and chameleon twice a day, you can reduce the chances of dehydration.
Outdoor Living
Outdoor enclosures need to be constructed permanently to prevent pests from chewing through the enclosure and attacking the chameleon. The plastic-coated hardware cloth seems to withstand the elements better than quarter-inch wire.
Ants are also a threat. If not caught in time, ants, like crickets, seem to go for the eyes of chameleons. Some chameleon keepers place the legs of the table on which the cage sits into cans filled with vegetable oil. Ants won't cross oil; those that do will drown (as long as the oil isn't solidified).
Insecticides of any kind should not be sprayed in the enclosure. Crickets can ingest the poison and, in turn, be eaten by chameleons.
Chameleons are often eaten by rats in my neighborhood, and they eat their tails and limbs. To keep rats out of outdoor enclosures, the coated wire should be used. Chameleons can chew through the window screening used in store-bought enclosures; these enclosures are only suitable for indoor chameleons.
Conclusion
We hope you enjoyed learning how to build a chameleon cage. It's not difficult to do if you have access to some basic tools. You want to make sure the frame is large enough, you have the right mesh, and there are no places for the chameleon to escape or stick its head or arms in.
If you build or buy your pet's enclosure, try to make it as similar to its natural habitat as possible. This will ensure that your chameleon thrives.
